Herb & Pumpkin Pie

Wotchers!

This recipe is inspired by one of the earliest Pumpkin Pie recipes in print. Robert May’s The Accomplish’d Cook (1660) includes the following recipe:

Now, I’ve tried making this recipe according to my own personal rule, of abiding by the text as written, at least for the first time, and I have to be honest, it didn’t sit too well with my 21st century palate. It starts off interestingly enough, with the pumpkin flesh and the herbs, then suddenly we’re getting sugar, eggs, apples, currants and so on until it becomes a real jumble to the point where it is unclear whether it is supposed to be a sweet or savoury item. I decided to cherry-pick the ingredients that appealed to me and make a version that, if not completely authentic, is certainly less erratic than the above recipe, and so I went with the savoury half of the instructions only.

The main problem with pumpkin, as I see it, is the lack of flavour, which can be improved somewhat by getting rid of as much excess moisture as possible. However, enclosing it in a pie prevents evaporation, to a certain extent, so partially cooking the pumpkin beforehand would help avoid sogginess as well as boosting the flavours.

I opted for a dough crust, as opposed to pastry, as it can be a lot more forgiving with moist fillings than pastry.  In addition, I made a lattice lid, which curls itself snugly around the filling, almost self-sealing during the cooking, thanks to the rise afforded by the yeast. Despite being enriched with milk, eggs and butter, the dough is wonderfully light and savoury and complements the filling very well.

Herb & Pumpkin Pie

Dough

500g plain flour or white bread flour
1 x 7g sachet of fast-action yeast or 25g fresh yeast
1 tsp salt
200 ml of milk
100 g of butter
2 large eggs

500g pumpkin flesh, cut into 2cm cubes
50g butter
1 sprig of fresh rosemary – leaves stripped & chopped
1tbs fresh thyme leaves
4tbs chopped, fresh parsley
2tsp fresh marjoram, chopped – or 1tsp dried
1/2tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 nutmeg, grated
pepper & salt

1 large egg for glazing

• Put the flour, yeast and salt into a bowl.
• Cut the butter into 1cm dice and melt in 100ml of milk.
• Add the remaining milk to cool the mixture down to blood temperature, then beat in the 2 eggs.
• Pour the liquids into the flour and mix for 10 minutes with a dough hook on the slowest speed.
• Mix on fast for 2 minutes, then cover with plastic and set aside to rise for 1 hour.

For the filling

• Melt the butter in a pan and add the diced pumpkin.
• Cook gently over low heat until the cubes have softened and are half-cooked. Set aside to cool.
• When cool, add the herbs and spices and season to taste.

To assemble

• Tip out the dough and deflate.
• Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces. Set one aside.
• Grease a 24cm spring-form tin.
• Roll out the other piece of dough to a thickness of 5-10mm.
• Line the tin with the dough, allowing the excess to hang down over the rim.
• Add the cooled filling to the tin and spread evenly.
• Roll the second piece of dough to a similar thickness, and cut into 1cm strips. I find using a pizza wheel to be the most effective utensil for this, as it doesn’t drag the dough.
• Dampen the edges of the pie using a pastry brush dipped in water.
• Use the strips of dough to make a lattice top. I find it easiest to start from the middle of the pie and to work outwards. This page has step-by-step images of the technique.
• When the lattice is complete, dampen the edges again and cut a final extra-long strip of dough. Press this strip firmly around the edge of the pie, covering the ends of the lattice strips, then use a sharp knife to trim off the excess dough.
• Brush with beaten egg and set aside to rise while the oven heats up.
• Heat the oven to 200°C, 180°C Fan.
• Bake for 35-40 minutes, until the dough is cooked through and golden brown.
• Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before removing from the tin and serving.